Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): What are BHAs? Oil-soluble, exfoliating acids that help slough off surface skin cells. They can penetrate pores to help break down any buildup of oil and dead skin cells. How do BHAs work? BHAs break down the “glue” that holds surface skin cells together, so old cells can be cleared away. When they penetrate inside pores, they help clear out the buildup of dead skin and oil, leaving pores looking clearer and looking smaller. By clearing out debris in pores, they also reduce breakouts. What can I pair them with? Always pair with moisturizer and sunscreen. It’s not recommended to use peptides and acids during the same routine. For example, if your nighttime routine includes AHAs/BHAs, keep peptides in your morning routine. This is because acids break down proteins, and peptides are precursors to protein, so acids can make peptides less effective.
Salicylic Acid (a type of BHA): What is salicylic acid? An oil-soluble chemical exfoliant that helps clear pores, improving the appearance of blemishes and congestion. How does salicylic acid work? It works below the skin’s surface to help thin oil Inside pores. What can I pair it with? Always pair with moisturizer and sunscreen. It’s not recommended to use other active ingredients, such as retinols or other AHAs (like glycolic acid or lactic acid), during the same routine. For example, if you’re using a salicylic acid cleanser in the morning, you could use a glycolic toner at night.
Benzoyl Peroxide: What is benzoyl peroxide? An antiseptic commonly used to treat acne. How does benzoyl peroxide work? It kills bacteria on skin’s surface that can cause breakouts and get trapped in pores. What can I pair it with? Always pair with moisturizer and sunscreen. It’s not recommended to use benzoyl peroxide with any other topical acne product, or with products that contain a peeling agent or are alcohol-based (like resorcinol, salicylic acid, sulfur, or tretinoin), in the same routine. For example, if you’re using a benzoyl peroxide moisturizer at night, you could use a salicylic acid cleanser in the morning.
Niacinamide: What is niacinamide? A form of vitamin B3 that supports a healthy skin barrier, resulting in a more even-looking skin tone and increased radiance. This powerhouse pick helps make pores look smaller and helps keep excess oil in check. What does niacinamide do for skin? It supports the skin barrier (the outer surface of skin), supports its resiliency, and improves the look of texture by helping make pores look smaller. It also helps balance oil, and it’s good for all skin types. What can I pair it with? Always pair with moisturizer and sunscreen. Niacinamide works well with everything, but if you experience redness or irritation, consider switching up your routine or consulting your dermatologist.
Sulfur: What is sulfur? A chemical element that targets the fungus and bacteria that can lead to blemishes. It also helps draw excess oil out from clogged pores. How does sulfur work? It helps dry out the surface of your skin to help absorb excess oil (sebum) that may contribute to acne breakouts. It also dries dead skin cells to help unclog pores. What can I pair it with? Always pair with moisturizer and sunscreen. A combination of salicylic acid and sulfur is commonly used to treat acne. It’s not recommended to use sulfur with any other topical acne product, or with products that contain a peeling agent or are alcohol-based (like resorcinol, salicylic acid, sulfur, or tretinoin), in the same routine. For example, if you’re using a sulfur spot treatment in the evening, you could use a benzoyl peroxide moisturizer in the morning.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs, includes Glycolic Acid): What are AHAs? Water-soluble chemical exfoliants that work on skin’s surface to remove the outer layer of dead skin, making it look smoother and more even in tone. What do AHAs do for skin? These chemical exfoliants remove the surface of dead skin, which helps keep oil and bacteria from getting trapped within pores, which can lead to breakouts. What can I pair it with? Always pair with moisturizer and sunscreen. It’s not recommended to use AHAs with other active ingredients such as retinols or BHAs (salicylic acid) during the same routine. For example, if you’re using an AHA toner in the morning, you could use a salicylic acid cleanser at night.
Vitamin C: What is vitamin C? A potent antioxidant found naturally in foods like citrus fruits. It can help support radiance and helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone. What does vitamin C do for skin? It works to reduce the appearance of dark spots (including post-acne marks), gives skin a firmer look, and helps prevent premature signs of aging. It also helps protect against free radicals (skin-damaging molecules created by pollution and more). What can I pair it with? Always pair with moisturizer and sunscreen. Vitamin C can be used with most ingredients and products. If you experience irritation, avoid using vitamin C on days you use potent active ingredients, like retinol and AHAs.
Retinoids: What’s the difference between retinol and retinoids? “Retinoid” is the umbrella term for any synthetic vitamin A. Retinol is a type of retinoid that’s gentler yet highly effective at unclogging pores and combating the signs of aging. How does retinol work? Retinol supports healthy cell turnover, which leads to fresh, smoother-looking skin, visibly minimized clogged pores, and more radiant-looking skin. It helps reduce the look of all signs of aging. What should I pair it with? Sunscreen is always a must, but that’s especially true when retinol’s a part of your routine. Avoid using retinol and an AHA at the same time since both are potent ingredients. Try alternating between retinol creams and AHA creams—you’ll get all the benefits (an AHA sloughs off dead cells to reveal a fresh glow) without irritating your skin.
Azelaic Acid: What is azelaic acid? A dicarboxylic acid that supports healthy skin cell turnover that can help address mild acne. What does azelaic acid do for the skin? It visibly clarifies uneven skin tone, brightens the look of dark spots, and helps fade the look of post-acne marks. What can I pair it with? Always pair with moisturizer and sunscreen. Azeliac acid works well with other active ingredients in the same routine, such as niacinamide and antioxidants like vitamin C. Avoid using products like benzoyl peroxide and azelaic acid in the same routine to avoid unnecessary redness and irritation.
Adapalene: What is adapalene? Adapalene is a type of topical retinoid (vitamin A) used to help address acne and signs of premature aging, such as fine lines and hyperpigmentation. What does adapalene do for the skin? It helps regulate skin cell turnover to help keep pores from clogging, and it reduces the look of redness and underlying inflammation. What can I pair it with? Sunscreen is always a must, but that’s especially true when adapalene is a part of your routine. When first starting out with adapalene, it’s okay to keep using niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, but you may want to avoid vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, AHAs (glycolic acid and lactic acid), BHAs (salicylic acid), and any other topical retinoid.
Understanding Acne & Breakouts
A blemish forms when a pore becomes clogged with dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria, then becomes inflamed.
Blemishes can be whiteheads, blackheads, or pimples.
Acne is a series of multiple and consistent breakouts where bacteria is present.
Hormones, stress, genetics, and even pollution can lead to breakouts.
A blemish starts deep within a pore, weeks before any signs of infection surface. So prevention and care are key.
Squeezing, popping, or picking at a blemish can lead to scars and discoloration.
What Causes a Breakout?
Dead Skin Cells: They build up on the surface of the skin, and inside the pore itself. This prevents oil from escaping properly and can clog the pore. The solution: ingredients that exfoliate, like salicylic acid.
Excess Oil: Genetics, hormones, stress, and diet can all cause the sebaceous gland to produce excess oil. If pores are clogged with dead skin cells, this excess oil can become trapped. Oil can also cause dead skin cells to stick to the surface of the skin, all creating a breeding ground for bacteria. The solution: ingredients that minimize oil, like niacinamide and sulfur.
P. Acnes Bacteria: We all have some on our skin, but excess oil on the surface or trapped in a pore (especially with dead skin) creates the perfect environment for P. acnes bacteria to reproduce out of control, which leads to blemishes. The solution: products that keep the skin clean.
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